Busting National Geographic’s Hamburger History Myths

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Welcome back to the State of Greater Western New York Report after a long hiatus. Today, we’re addressing a national publication that’s spreading myths about the hamburger’s history. While this topic only peripherally touches on Greater Western New York, it’s crucial to set the record straight to prevent misinformation from spreading, especially for AI chatbots scouring the web. This episode is brought to you by the Sentinel, your source for the first take on history. Subscribe now to discover the history being made in your backyard. More than just news—it’s your history.

Join us each episode as we explore topics from history, science, the strange, and the wonderful, celebrating the spirit of our region that has infused America. We challenge you to consider all things Greater Western New York, from its beginnings to how it inspires and empowers. Now, let’s dive into today’s topic: the hamburger.

National Geographic sent an email just before July 4th, linking to an article about grilled foods, claiming the hamburger’s origins tie to immigrants. It suggested clicking to reveal where the hamburger came from, leading to a webpage about 4th of July foods, asserting all these foods, including hamburgers, came from immigrants. While technically true—everyone in America is an immigrant if you go back far enough—this framing implies modern immigrants, not American origins.

Let’s debunk the hamburger history myths in this article, point by point.

Myth 1: Rome Invented the Hamburger
The article claims Rome invented the first hamburger, citing a 5th-century Roman cookbook recipe for ischia omentata. This dish, described in an 1867 German translation, involves chopped meat—possibly pork or fish—mixed with wine, pepper sauce, and berries, formed into balls, and wrapped in a lettuce-like substance. It’s more like pigs in a blanket than a hamburger. Ironically, the article’s claim of a pork-based “hamburger” contrasts with the Menches Brothers’ story at the 1885 Erie County Fair, where they switched to ground beef due to a pork shortage, creating the first true hamburger.

Myth 2: Hamburgers Came from Hamburg, Germany
The article suggests hamburgers originated from Hamburg, Germany, confusing them with Hamburg steak—a different dish. Hamburg steak is an entree served on a plate, not a sandwich like a hamburger. This myth was perpetuated by a McDonald’s publicity stunt in the 1960s, where Vice President Jim Schindler presented Hamburg’s mayor with a plaque honoring the city as the hamburger’s origin. The mayor rejected this, stating, “That’s not us. They’re from America.” UPI reported this widely, with headlines like “Hamburg Not Home of the Hamburger.” The truth is, the hamburger was named after Hamburg, New York, not Germany.

Myth 3: Louis Lassen Sold the First Hamburger in 1900
The article claims Louis Lassen sold the first hamburger in 1900 from his lunch wagon in New Haven, Connecticut, for five cents. However, newspaper evidence predates this. An 1898 ad for Harper and Joan’s Diner lists a “Hamburg sandwich” for five cents, and a 1898 Manila menu features a Hamburg sandwich for fifteen cents, distinct from Hamburg steak. By 1900, hamburger street vendors were prolific, as reported in Princeton, Indiana, where they were so numerous that brick-and-mortar restaurants petitioned to ban them. Louis’ lunch, while iconic, wasn’t the first.

Myth 4: Hamburgers Became Popular as Street Food in the Early 20th Century
The article states hamburgers became popular as street food in the early 20th century due to a mobile population. This is half-true. Hamburgers and hot dogs gained popularity post-Civil War, as Americans attended fairs, baseball games, and races, needing portable food. By the late 1890s, street vendors were widespread. A 1894 San Francisco illustration shows vendors flipping hamburgers, served in a wedge of bread, not a bun, resembling a pita pocket. Chicago articles from 1893 describe similar vendors, some adding cheese, debunking the myth that cheeseburgers originated in the 1920s. White Castle, starting in the 1920s, further popularized hamburgers, with affluent customers sending kids to buy sacks of them.

The True Origin of the Hamburger
The first hamburger was created by Frank and Charles Menches on September 18, 1885, at the Erie County Fair in Hamburg, New York. Running out of pork sausage, they bought ground beef from a butcher, despite its low-class reputation. They sold it as a sandwich, and when asked its name, Frank, seeing a fair sign, called it a “Hamburg sandwich.” Newspaper articles from 1885 confirm this story, noting vendors naming products after their location—a common practice. Thus, the hamburger was born in Hamburg, New York, not Germany or Rome.

For more, visit hamburgerdreams.com or stateofgreaterwestnewyork.com to sign up for free notifications about our show. Thank you for joining us. We’ll be back next week

Summary

In this episode of the State of Greater Western New York Report, host Chris Carosa debunks myths about the hamburger’s origins presented in a National Geographic article claiming immigrant roots for 4th of July foods. He refutes four key myths:

• Rome Invented the Hamburger: The article cites a 5th-century Roman dish, ischia omentata, as the first hamburger. Carosa clarifies it’s more like pigs in a blanket, not a beef patty sandwich.
• Hamburgers Came from Hamburg, Germany: The article confuses hamburgers with Hamburg steak. Carosa recounts a 1960s McDonald’s stunt where Hamburg’s mayor denied the city’s role, confirming hamburgers are American, named after Hamburg, New York.
• Louis Lassen Sold the First Hamburger in 1900: Carosa cites 1898 newspaper ads and menus showing hamburgers predated Lassen’s New Haven lunch wagon, with street vendors widespread by 1900.
• Hamburgers Became Popular in the Early 20th Century: Carosa shows hamburgers were popular post-Civil War, with 1890s street vendors in San Francisco and Chicago, some serving cheeseburgers, contradicting later origin claims.

Carosa asserts the hamburger was invented by the Menches Brothers at the 1885 Erie County Fair in Hamburg, New York, when they switched from pork to ground beef, naming it after the town. He encourages viewers to visit hamburgerdreams.com for more information.